Is the Maldives Overrated? Is this “Paradise” Really for Everyone?

“Welcome to the Maldives — where the sands are as white as the smiles of the locals, where fish swim happily in the warm waters of the Indian Ocean, where the weather is a dream, and the deep rays of the sun await to engulf you in their arms…”

– visitmaldives.com 

Overview of the Maldives

The Maldives is an archipelago of 1,192 coral islands, located southwest of India and Sri Lanka in the Indian Ocean. Before the 1970’s, it was largely unknown to international tourists.

Today, it’s on just about everyone’s bucket list — mine included — even though I wouldn’t call myself a beach fanatic. It’s one of those places I felt I had to see for myself, if only because of its fame. 

In 2009, the Maldivian government opened local islands to tourists, making it possible to visit the Maldives without committing to a five-star resort. Since then, budget travel here has become far more accessible.

At the time, though, flights from my city weren’t exactly cheap, so the Maldives stayed on my “one day” list. That changed when AirAsia launched direct flights from Kuala Lumpur to Malé, suddenly making the trip feel realistic.

So… did the Maldives live up to the hype?

Read on.

Note: The views expressed here are based purely on my personal experience. They are not intended to offend anyone, or serve as a definitive guide. Just one traveler’s opinion.

The good

First, let’s address the obvious. What is it about this place that makes it such a coveted holiday spot when there are so many other beach destinations in the world?

Unparalleled beaches

Well, imagine a cluster of remote uninhabited islands in the middle of the ocean, ringed by shallow turquoise lagoons and framed by consistently flawless beaches. With their powdery white sand and impossibly blue water, the Maldives’ beaches are what dreams (and screensavers) are made of.

What’s more, most of these islands are so tiny that each can house only one resort. There aren’t many places in the world that can offer this level of isolation combined with this level of luxury.

Although I spent most of my time on inhabited islands, which are larger and apparently don’t feature the best beaches in the country, I can still attest to the quality of their sand and water.

Here’s an unedited photo of my friend in Maafushi before we went kayaking.

Incredible marine life

If you spend your entire holiday on a sun lounger, you’re doing it wrong. Grab your snorkel and get into the water, because you’re about to discover a marine wonderland that looks even better than Finding Nemo.

The Maldives has one of the largest coral reef systems in the Indian Ocean, with over 250 species of coral and more than 1000 species of marine life.

In fact, one of the atolls is even designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, thanks to its biodiversity.

You have a high chance of spotting hammerheads, whale sharks, dolphins, turtles, and manta rays. The water is so clear that it’s even possible to see manta rays from a seaplane if you fly over Manta Point.

In addition, one Maldivian island, Ellaidhoo is actually concave, allowing you to dive right beneath it. If that’s not mind-blowing, I don’t know what is.

Next-level luxury resorts

With the right amount of money, your options are endless.

Overwater villas with steps directly into the ocean. Private infinity pools. Personal butlers. Glass-walled underwater restaurants. Underwater wine cellars. Underwater spas.

You can watch marine life swim past while you eat dinner. There are beach cinemas, giant floating screens, telescopes that rise from the ground for stargazing, and popcorn prepared by a chef.

Yes, those are real.

If your idea of travel is being pampered like a princess (or prince), the Maldives is difficult to beat.

The bad

It’s EXPENSIVE!

Shocking, I know.

Out of 1,192 islands, about 200 are inhabited by locals, but only a fraction of these are actually open to tourists. So if you’re a budget traveler trying to avoid the expensive resorts, your options are still pretty limited.

If you choose to stay on a resort island with those fancy villas, be prepared to pay up to $5,000 per night. But your expenses don’t stop there. In fact, that’s not even where they begin.

Obviously, you first have to fly to the Maldives from wherever you are in the world. Then you still need to get from the capital city to your resort island.

Basically, you have two choices: a private speedboat or a seaplane. A return speedboat transfer can cost over $150 per person, while a seaplane transfer can set you back $500 or more per person.

That’s more than triple what I paid for my flight from Kuala Lumpur to the Maldives!

Hidden charges

Beyond accommodation and transport, visitors to the Maldives are also required to pay bed tax (USD 12 per person per night). This is on top of the 17% TGST (Tourism Goods & Services Tax) and 10% service charge. 

ATMs are limited. There’s at least one per atoll, but not necessarily per island. Foreign card withdrawal fees can be steep.

Also, converting leftover Maldivian rufiyaa back into other currencies can be a pain, so plan your cash carefully.

Resorts = total monopoly

Each resort occupies its own private island.

Which sounds dreamy… until you realize it means: only one restaurant group, one pricing structure, one set of activities, and no alternatives.

Basically, if something annoys you or if you want some variety, there’s nowhere else to go (without incurring extra charges on speedboat or seaplane transfers).

You’re effectively locked into whatever ecosystem that resort has created.

Personally, I need freedom (and a lot of variety) when I travel. I like being able to wander into different cafés, compare prices, and choose where my money goes.

A private island with controlled pricing feels less like paradise and more like one of those theme parks that won’t let you bring your own food or drinks, and then charge you $20 for a bottle of water. 

Alcohol, bikinis, and public displays of affection are illegal

The Maldives is a 100% Muslim country.

On resort islands, anything goes. Alcohol is available and swimwear is unrestricted.

But on local islands where people actually live, certain regulations apply:

• Alcohol is prohibited
• Importing alcohol or pork is illegal
• Modest dress is expected
• Bikinis are only allowed on designated “bikini beaches”
• Public displays of affection are discouraged

You need to be mindful of local customs. If you’re used to carefree beach party destinations, this may feel restrictive.

Zero nightlife

Shops close around 10pm. Restaurants take last orders around the same time.

After that, the island is pretty much dead.

I’m not a party person (anymore), but having absolutely no casual bar scene felt strange for a beach destination.

If nightlife matters to you, you may want to look elsewhere.

Beyond the beach… there isn’t much

Yes, it’s a beach destination. I get that.

But as a Southeast Asian, I guess I’m just too used to beach destinations that have more to offer than just the sand and the sea.

In places like Bali, Vietnam, Thailand or the Philippines, you get beautiful temples, rice fields, waterfalls, volcanoes, and other gorgeous sights all within reach of the beach.

You see, I don’t mind spending time on the beach, lazing around, snorkeling, and sunbathing… but only for a day or two, max. Any longer than that and I’d start itching for other stuff to do — mountains to climb, rivers to cross, cooking classes to take, night markets to explore.

On Maafushi, I rented a bicycle, but there wasn’t much to say about it. I could easily cover the whole island in under 30 minutes. There was a prison, a local village, a few shops, guesthouses, and that was about it.

I also cycled around the other local islands, hoping for something different, but the story was largely the same.

The food

Being Asian (and Malaysian in particular), I take food seriously. Trying local delicacies is usually one of the main highlights of my trips.

Sadly, Maldivian cuisine left a lot to be desired. Most dishes seemed to revolve around the same holy trinity: tuna, coconut, and onion.

A typical meal consisted of fish curry or shredded fish, served with rice or unleavened bread. And yes, you’d see similar combinations at breakfast too.

On top of that, vegetables seemed to be a rare commodity. Many staples such as chicken, milk and rice had to be imported from India or Sri Lanka.

So… is the Maldivess overrated?

Ultimately, it boils down to what type of traveler you are and what you’re looking for.

The Maldives is a perfect destination for:

• Honeymooners. You want a quiet, relaxing holiday together in a plush resort with a stunning backdrop. You don’t need anyone else but each other. You don’t mind spending a large portion of your holiday cooped up in your room.
• Those who like to be pampered. It doesn’t matter if you’re a solo traveler, a honeymooning couple, a mother-and-daughter duo, or a group of girls on a bachelorette trip, as long as you enjoy being spoiled with room service, an in-house massage therapist, a personal butler, and all that luxury jazz. Some resorts even have photographers on staff to capture all your best angles for the perfect Instagram shots. 
• City dwellers wanting to get away from it all. Maybe you’re juggling a high-stress job in a hectic city and need a few days to escape to a remote island where you can truly switch off. The Maldives offers the isolation and peace you’re craving.
• Hardcore beach bums, because it’s all about the sand, the sun, and the sea.
• Fish lovers. Go ahead — eat all the tuna you can handle!

The Maldives is NOT for:

• Backpackers or independent travelers. Sure, it’s possible to visit the Maldives on a backpacker’s budget, but your options will be limited. If you get around by hitchhiking, bicycle, or car, forget it—this isn’t that kind of destination. Even staying on a resort island won’t give you much independence. Everything is set up for you, whether you like it or not.
• Adventure junkies or people who get bored easily. The only adventure you can get here is water sports — if your resort offers them. There’s not much else. Can’t swim or scared of sea creatures? Sorry, but you’re going to have stay on the beach and build sandcastles or something.
• Party people. Just forget about it. There are better and cheaper places to go.
• People who hate overpriced tourist traps. If you get irrationally worked up over exorbitant prices, “luxury” brands, and other capitalist gimmicks like I do, you’re not going to like this place, unless you stick to the local islands.
• Vegans/vegetarians. Good luck. Resorts might cater to you with made-to-order meals, but judging from the vegetable situation, finding fresh, satisfying plant-based options on local islands is going to be tricky.

So, that’s my take on this popular destination. I fall into the latter category, unfortunately. While I still found it enjoyable, it’s definitely not my favorite.

How about you? Is the Maldives your dream destination? Or if you’ve already been, what did you think? Comment below.

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Read more about the Maldives:

• Maafushi Travel Guide
• Huraa Travel Guide
• Thulusdhoo Travel Guide
• Hulhumale Travel Guide
• Centara Ras Fushi Resort on a Day Pass