The Floating Village of Brunei: Exploring Kampong Ayer in Bandar Seri Begawan
Nestled on the island of Borneo between the Malaysian states of Sarawak and Sabah sits a small but fascinating nation: Brunei Darussalam.
It’s also one of the wealthiest nations in the world, and its monarch, Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah, is often ranked among the richest rulers globally, living in the world’s largest residential palace.
Before I arrived, I had this mental image of Brunei as a glittering, ultra-modern city filled with skyscrapers that mirror its oil wealth and all the quiet power that comes with it.
But once I was there, that expectation didn’t quite hold up. Yes, there are grand mosques and well-kept public spaces, but the overall feeling is much more understated.
Life here doesn’t revolve around showy wealth at all. In fact, around 10,000 to 13,000 people still live in Kampong Ayer, a whole community built on stilts over the river, right in the capital itself.
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A city floating on the river
“Kampong Ayer” literally means “water village” in Malay. It’s often described as the world’s largest settlement built on stilts.
Estimates vary, but around 10,000 to 13,000 people still live here today across a network of wooden walkways stretching for roughly 30 to 40 kilometers across the river.
The village is not just one cluster of houses either. It’s made up of multiple small communities linked together, forming something that feels closer to a floating neighborhood system than a single village.
It also seems to be quite self-sufficient. There are mosques, schools, grocery shops, clinics, fire stations, and even police posts all built above the water.
Apparently, over the years, the government has encouraged residents to relocate to land-based housing, but many have resisted the idea.
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A brief history of Kampong Ayer Brunei
Historical records from Chinese traders suggest Kampong Ayer has existed for over a thousand years, making it one of Southeast Asia’s longest continuously inhabited water settlements.
When Venetian explorer Antonio Pigafetta passed by Brunei in 1521 during Ferdinand Magellan’s expedition, he was struck by what he saw.
The river settlement reminded him of Venice, and this is where the “Venice of the East” nickname is believed to have originated.
Over time, other cities like Bangkok and Kolkata have been given the same nickname, but Kampong Ayer is one of the earliest places associated with it.
Back then, this water-based lifestyle was not a novelty. It was the center of the Bruneian Empire.
Wealthy families, traders, and everyday residents all lived on the river, choosing wooden stilt houses over land settlements along the swampy banks.
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During the British colonial period, there were efforts to encourage residents to move onto land. Over time, many did, especially as modern housing developed nearby.
Still, a community remained, choosing continuity over relocation.
Today, Kampong Ayer stands as both a residential area and a cultural landmark.
How to get to Kampong Ayer
You might assume all floating villages are tucked away in remote corners, far from city life. Not this one.
Thanks to its location just beside the city center, Kampong Ayer is easy to reach.
From the city center of Bandar Seri Begawan, you can simply walk to the riverfront along Jalan McArthur or nearby jetties and flag down a water taxi. Boats move constantly across the river, so waiting time is usually short.
The ride is quick, often just a few minutes, and typically costs around BND 1 to 2 per trip depending on distance.
For a more scenic route, you can also walk part of the way via the Sungai Kebun pedestrian bridge, which connects through the Sungai Kedayan Eco-Corridor near the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque.
There are also guided tours available, but exploring on your own is completely doable.
What to expect at Kampong Ayer
Walking into Kampong Ayer can feel a little disorienting at first. Wooden boardwalks stretch in every direction, and the river gently shifts beneath everything.
At first glance, Kampong Ayer can look a bit rough around the edges, but that first impression doesn’t really tell the full story.
Some residents actually own pretty flashy cars you’ll notice parked along the waterfront, which feels almost surreal when you’ve just come off a wooden walkway over the river.
Housing varies quite a lot. Wealthier families live in bigger two-storey concrete homes and may even have their own fast fiberglass boats zipping across the water.
Others live in more modest wooden houses with zinc roofs and rely on traditional wooden boats to get around.
But despite the differences, everyone still has access to basics like electricity and clean water, which ties the whole community together in a surprisingly functional way.
Kampong Ayer has all the facilities and conveniences you would expect in any regular neighborhood, including a waste collection system, petrol stations, grocery shops, a community hall, a post office, schools, and healthcare facilities.
And yes, even Wi-Fi is available throughout much of the village.
While many residents are still fishermen and boat builders, others work as government employees or in the private sector on the mainland.
Every day, they commute by boat across the river before driving to work from parking areas along Jalan Residency.
Even the local police and fire department rely on speedboats to navigate the maze of waterways and wooden boardwalks.
As one of Brunei’s most important cultural landmarks, Kampong Ayer continues to receive significant government investment to maintain its infrastructure and preserve its unique heritage while supporting the community that still calls it home.
Where to stay near Kampong Ayer
Budget
- Co.Living Hostel Bandar – Dormitories and private rooms with a shared kitchen.
- Miniinn Guest House – Private rooms, some with ensuite bathrooms.
- Easybox Budget Hotel – 1-star hotel with private rooms and an onsite restaurant.
Mid-range
- Badi’ah Hotel – Features an indoor pool, outdoor pool, garden, and in-house restaurants.
- Times Hotel – Features a pool, game room, salon and 24-hour room service.
Luxury
- Radisson Hotel Brunei – A 4-star hotel with an outdoor pool, a fitness center, a business center, and rooms with pool view.
- J Hotel – A 4-star hotel with a pool, fitness center, coffee shop, and restaurant.
Final thoughts
Kampong Ayer is a must-visit if you ever find yourself in Brunei. It offers a fascinating glimpse into a way of life that has endured for centuries while existing alongside the comforts of the modern world.
More than anything, it provides a unique window into everyday life in Brunei.
One thing I really appreciated about visiting Brunei was how relaxed the experience felt.
Although Kampong Ayer is one of the country’s top tourist attractions, you won’t find locals trying to sell you souvenirs or pressure you into buying anything. The water taxis charge fixed fares, so there’s no need to haggle or negotiate.
After traveling through many parts of Southeast Asia, where bargaining is often part of the experience, I found this surprisingly refreshing.
At the same time, it’s important to remember that this is not just an attraction. It is home. Respect goes a long way here, especially when taking photos or walking through residential areas.
Good knowledge sharing on Kampung Ayer. Kampung Ayer looks like an interesting place to visit. Wish to visit Kampung Ayer if I travel to Brunei in the future. Thank you for sharing. Love your pictures btw.
You’re welcome, Fadima! This was in 2011 when I was still using an ancient camera, so the pictures are actually very poor quality. But thank you for the compliment! I hope you’ll get to visit Brunei someday. 🙂
Very interesting place. I never been to Brunei before. If i go there will check out this Kampung
Yes, Kampong Ayer is definitely a must-visit of you’re in Bandar Seri Begawan. It’s so easy to get to and a perfect place to learn more about the Bruneian culture.
Great post Ummi! I am from Miri, which is right next to Brunei but I have never been there. Been thinking of visiting Brunei one day. Thanks for sharing your experiences!
Oh, I hope you will go someday, Aaronn, considering that it’s so near your place. I haven’t been to Miri though. Will definitely put that on my list. There are so many places in Borneo that I have yet to explore.
Like you have mentioned this is really a good opportunity got visitors to find out about another facet of Brunei that a lot of us don’t know.
Yup, when I travel, I always like to see or experience first hand how the locals live. That’s why I usually skip hotels and stay with locals as much as I could. There’s so much you can learn from them 😃
Belum sampai ke Brunei Darussalam ni walaupun teringin nak ke sana dan tentu sekali akan cari masa utk melawat Kpg Air ni… moga sampai satu hari nanti.
Mungkin lepas covid ni reda nanti, Fas ada peluang untuk ke Brunei. Jangan lupa ke Kampong Ayer, sebab dekat je dengan Bandar Seri Begawan 🙂
eyyyyyy– mini market dia lebih kurang kat Malaysia.. hee~ tapi bersih sungguh persekitaran Kampong Ayer ni.. kan kalau ada sesetengah penempatan macam ni, sedikit kotor dan kurang selesa.. habis covid ni, boleh lah jalan-jalan Brunei..
Haah, macam kedai runcit kat kampung2 tu kan? Ya, memang bersih dan terjaga. Sebab kerajaan diorang dah peruntukkan bajet khas untuk pengurusan tempat ni. Ok nanti dah habis Covid, pergi la jalan2 Brunei. ☺️
Walaupun Brunei ni negara jiran terdekat tp tak pernah gi lagi. Maybe sbb dia tak macam thailand dan Indonesia yang mmg jadi destinasi pelancongan so selalu cam kalo plan nak ke luar negara selalu lupa nak pilih dia..hope one day dpt ke sini
Ya, Min. Brunei ni memang tak sepopular negara-negara serantau seperti Thailand dan Indonesia. Mungkin kerana negara mereka dah cukup kaya dengan minyak dan tak perlu bergantung dengan sektor pelancongan, maka ia tak dipromosikan sangat. Tapi tempatnya tak kurang menarik untuk dilawati. Semoga Min berkesempatan untuk ke sana nanti.
Tak pernah sampai Brunei, biasa nengok aje orang share, memang semuanya atas air ekk. duk bayangkan juga, kalaulah hujan lebat ke air pasang besar ke, macam mana mereka yaaa…
Haah, semuanya atas air. Saya pun hairan jugak. Sebab Kampong Ayer ni settlement on stilts, bukannya terapung. Kalau terapung tu, takde la risiko banjir kot. Tapi since diorang dah berdekad2 kat situ, ada la agaknya cara diorang atasi masalah tu.
My sis dan mom ada datang sini ms mereka ke brunei 3 tahun lps.. mmg tenang sgt tempat ni dan agak unik
Ya, memang unik kan Kampong Ayer, Brunei ni? Jarang kita dapat tengok perkampungan atas air zaman sekarang ni, lagi2 yg dekat dengan bandar.
Waah best nya dapat jenjalan kat sana… Kita suka tengok suasana macam ni. Tenang je sambil layan cuaca, pemandangan kampung.
Haah, padahal Kampong Ayer ni dekat je dengan Bandar Seri Begawan. Tak payah travel jauh2 pun. Agaknya kalau di KL ni, ibarat Kampung Baru la kot. Kampung dalam bandar.
Tak pernah jejak brunei lagi. Memang nak ke kampong ayer ni melalui sungai je ye.interesting sangat
Ya, Marina. Kalau nak ke kawasan yang paling dekat dengan pusat bandar, memang kena naik bot merentas sungai. Tu cara yang paling senang la. Dan kejap je sampai. Kalau taknak lalu sungai boleh, tapi kena jalan jauh sikit, pergi ke kawasan Tamoi Tengah.
I visited this place before the MCO and fell in love with it. Hoping to revisit this beautiful place soon
That’s wonderful, Grace! I quite liked the place. It’s very peaceful and feels untouched by modernity. I’m not sure how I feel about visiting again though, as I’m sure you’re aware of some of the laws that are enforced in the country that has put it under the world’s scrutiny.
they might live like this but they arent savages. haha. Im sure they have decent jobs and nice cars
True that, Nik Khazami. They sure do. It may not be immediately obvious, but they’re probably much better off than us Malaysians. 😉
Oh what a nice netry. full of information. thanks for sharing 🙂
You’re most welcome, Ika! Hope you found the entry useful for your next trip to Brunei 🙂